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The Mark of a Master

September 16, 2024

The Mark of a Master
Whether hosting a party or treating yourself to something special, making cheese selections at your local grocery or specialty store amidst a sea of rich blues, cheddars and goudas can be overwhelming. How do you choose quality cheeses you can count on to taste delicious? Here’s a pro tip: Check if a Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® crafted the cheeses you’re about to take home.

2024 Master Cheese Maker Class inductees
2024 Graduating Class of the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® Program

Head of the the Class

The only program of its kind in the U.S. and outside of Europe, the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® Program has been turning licensed cheesemakers into Masters for 30 years. Made possible through joint sponsorship with the Center for Dairy Research (CDR), University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension, and Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin, this advanced education program allows cheesemakers to reach the highest levels of their craft while providing consumers with delectable cheeses made with quality assurance, expertise, and innovation.

Established in 1994, the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® Program is dedicated to upholding the unparalleled standards of Wisconsin cheesemaking. This "Ph.D. in cheese" leads experienced cheesemakers to become world-class cheese creators through a formal sequence of courses like cheese artisanship, grading and technology, and food safety

Only veteran cheesemakers who have been making cheese and have held a cheesemaker's license for a minimum of 10 years—with at least five years of experience crafting the cheese variety for which they seek certification—are invited to apply. Graduating from the program is a point of excellence and pride that cheesemakers take seriously.

Tony Hook

Making the Grade

It takes nearly three years from a cheesemaker’s acceptance into the program until graduation. In addition to completing a rigorous series of required and elective courses, cheesemakers also participate in an apprenticeship during which they submit samples for evaluation. Near the end of the program, cheesemakers complete a final written exam to graduate, which could take up to 40 hours to complete!

“The Master’s program was very important to me,” says North America’s most decorated cheesemaker, Master Cheesemaker Sid Cook of Carr Valley Cheese. His certifications include cheddar, fontina and mixed-milk varieties like Gran Canaria®. “It gave me a lot of insight into how other cheesemakers make cheese.”

Sid Cook

A Community of Cheese Champions

The Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® Program gives our cheesemakers a significant advantage recognized worldwide and assists in designating the state as the epicenter of specialty cheeses. But what does that mean for you? Some of the world's best cheeses are at your fingertips. Cheeses crafted by a Master Cheesemaker are of the highest quality and backed by years of commitment and education.

While Masters are awarded a medal at their graduation ceremony, most leave the program with something far more precious. They depart with an appetite to explore all the possibilities of cheese and are eager to share knowledge and that excitement with their teams and the community. So, while the list of elite Master Cheesemakers is short yet impressive, the program has been instrumental in elevating the industry, building a legacy of artistry and science in cheesemaking that lasts for generations.

Andy Hatch

Master Cheesemaker Andy Hatch, the owner of Uplands Cheese, earned his certification in Hard Surface Ripened Cheese in 2024. Andy handcrafts the renowned Pleasant Ridge Reserve, the most awarded cheese in American history. “I love taking classes and continuing my education, but I’ve never been able to convince myself to take the time, so this was useful because it gave me an organized push into formal education,” Andy shares. “It’s particularly meaningful to me because I wasn’t born into it. And I feel very grateful that the industry has supported someone like me…I’ve really been brought along by everyone else in this state, so I'm very grateful for that.”

Kerry Henning

Beyond the books and the experts, cheesemakers often rely on their classmates as teachers, as they bring out the best in each other through collaboration and communication while helping to uphold each other to specific standards. “We’d always head down to the local pub and have some beers after class— that’s when the learning really began [laughs]!” says Master Cheesemaker Kerry Henning of Henning’s Wisconsin Cheese, who got his first certification in the late 1990s. “It’s a very close-knit community here in Wisconsin. We want people to succeed, and we want people to make good cheese.”

Learn more about Kerry and the Masters behind the cheeses featured in the following recipes.

Master Cheesemaker seal

Can you spot the seal of excellence? 
The Master’s Mark is exclusive to Wisconsin’s Master Cheesemakers. Only certified cheesemakers can display this or their personalized mark on the packaging. To use the mark, a Master Cheesemaker must supervise cheesemaking and continue participating in the quality assurance program. The mark is used only on specific cheeses for which the cheesemaker is certified.

Klondike Master Cheesemaker seals
From top left to bottom right: Matt Erdley (certified in brick, gouda, havarti and muenster), Adam Buholzer (certified in brick, feta, gouda, and havarti), Dave Buholzer (certified in feta and muenster), Ron Buholzer (certified in brick and feta), and Steve Buholzer (certified in feta and muenster)

Klondike Cheese Company | Monroe, WI

This family-owned, fourth-generation business is home to five Master Cheesemakers, each certified in several cheeses. “Wisconsin really prides itself on making the world’s best cheese, and to be part of that as a Master with the other Masters making famous Wisconsin cheeses, it’s just a great honor,” says Adam. Matt adds, “I think the program is just a fantastic resource to continue driving the art and science of cheesemaking. You can’t say enough about it.

whipped feta with roasted grapes

Make it: Whipped Feta with Roasted Grapes

Kerry Henning Master Cheesemaker
Kerry Henning (certified in cheddar, colby and monterey jack)

Henning's Wisconsin Cheese | Kiel, WI

Kerry was in one of the first-ever graduating classes of the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® Program. “When we went through the Master program, we got a stack of books a foot high,” Kerry recalls. “Those resources help. And having the expertise (of world-class cheesemakers)—not every state has that.” Today, Kerry passes down his knowledge and passion to the next generation and continues his family’s 100+ years of cheesemaking tradition.

roasted pear and maple bourbon cheddar salad

Make it: Roasted Pear and Maple Bourbon Cheddar Salad

Steve Bechel Master Cheesemaker
Steve Bechel (certified in parmesan and romano)

Eau Galle Cheese | Durand, WI

Since 1945, Eau Galle Cheese has crafted some of the state’s finest cheeses. Steve is at the helm. “What I thought was going to be a very repetitious job became something new every day,” says Steve. “I am very proud to join the ranks of Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker®. It had been a goal of mine for a long time.” Eau Galle Cheese has earned several awards at the United States and World Championship Cheese Contests for their parmesan and asiago cheeses

parmesan shrimp scampi

Make it: Parmesan Shrimp Scampi

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