Art of Crafting Cheese

In Wisconsin, cheese is an art form that transcends the plate. It’s first presented as an edible showpiece that catches the eyes, then rewards the taste buds. Explore, connect with cheesemakers and shop your way through a world of Wisconsin cheeses to find your next showstopping wedge or block at this year’s “Cheese Fair Off the Square.” It’s an opportunity to celebrate the craftsmanship behind our cheeses, alongside the innovative cheesemakers from across the state who bring them to life. Meet three talented artisans here, who’ll be on hand at the fair to share their stories— and cheeses—at this delicious event.

A Flavor Artist | Marieke Penterman, Marieke® Gouda

Master Cheesemaker Marieke Penterman crafts a symphony of tastes with her young, aged and flavored goudas. Each wheel is a masterpiece—rich farmstead cheese with perfectly blended ingredients that strike the right chord.

Share how you go about creating a flavored gouda.
Flavored gouda isn’t just “gouda with stuff in it.” It’s a balance of art and science, with room for creativity. Timing is everything— we add herbs, spices, bacon, seeds and more after cutting the curds but before pressing, when they’re warm and pliable to help integrate the flavors. The taste of a flavored gouda often evokes a memory or experience. Pairing the flavor with a story (like nettle conjuring springtime in Holland or hatch pepper recalling the Southwest) makes it irresistible.

How do you reshape people’s perception of gouda?
Our cheeses invite people to explore beyond traditional aging profiles and discover gouda’s versatility. A hint of spice, earthiness or sweetness can surprise and delight, adding a flavor experience and creativity to cheeseboards and recipes.

What are your most popular flavored goudas?
Our Honey Clover may not be widely known, but those who try it tend to fall in love with its subtle, sweet character. More familiar flavors like Truffle and Holy Trinity Mélange cheeses are also popular. What sets our flavored goudas apart is that we are committed to and pridefully ensure the cheese always shines through, never overpowered by additional ingredients.

Do you have a favorite flavored gouda pairing?
We recently created s’mores made with our smoked gouda. They were incredible!

An Urban Artist | Ron Henningfeld, Hill Valley Dairy

From unique cheddars and cheese curds to gouda and alpine beauties like Alina, first-generation cheesemaker Ron Henningfeld is connecting cheese lovers in the city with his vibrant urban cheese factory and cheese bar.

Share how you became an urban cheesemaker.
While working as an apprentice, a mutual connection introduced me to Master Cheesemaker Bob Wills at Clock Shadow Creamery in Milwaukee. I soon became a full-time cheesemaker and have been making my cheeses at the creamery since my family and I started Hill Valley Dairy in 2015. In 2023, my wife Josie and I officially reopened the urban cheese factory as Hill Valley Dairy. Because space is limited, we age the cheeses at our facility near our family’s dairy farm in East Troy.

Why bring the cheesemaking experience to the city?
Making cheese in a city is uncommon, but it creates a fantastic place for people to connect with the cheese, the production process, the cheesemakers, the farm behind it all, and Wisconsin’s cheese culture.

Where do you draw inspiration to create your cheeses?
The cheeses I love inspire me. I want to make cheese that feels like a friend to me and our customers. To create my recipes, I rely on the best ingredients and the handmade, traditional cheesemaking methods that produce full-flavored cheeses.

Sip, Savor and Discover
Enjoy an elevated cheese experience at the Milwaukee Cheese Bar at Hill Valley Dairy, where the art of cheesemaking is married with the craft of mixology.

“We wanted a space for our customers to dive deeper into the cheeses they were interested in,” shares Josie Henningfeld, Hill Valley Dairy’s head of Cheese Shop and Milwaukee Cheese Bar. “We loved the social vibe of a bar, so we expanded on that with a cheesemonger and a bartender who recommend terrific cheese pairings. Each craft cocktail comes with a cheese we make. For example, we pair our Habanero Cheddar with a Reverse Manhattan. Individually, you have spicy cheese and a spirit-forward drink, but they settle each other down together, leaving a beautiful bite on the tongue.”

“We let our customers guide the experience. If you want to stick with things you like, no problem,” Josie says. “Our staff offers a lot of samples and stories. We love to chat about cheese and the cheesemakers. And if you’re feeling adventurous and want to try new cheeses, we are ready!”

A Traditional Artist | Chris Renard, Renards Artisan Cheese

Master Cheesemaker Chris Renard handcrafts artisanal cheeses at his fourth-generation, family-owned factory in Door County. Each creation honors tradition, from aged and hoop cheddars to New World Cheddar and an array of flavored cheddars.

What makes all the cheddars you’ve created so special?
I have always loved cheddar. Our cheeses are handcrafted in small batches using traditional techniques, and we still use many of our family recipes today. We have our base cheddar recipe, but each flavor or blend has unique steps or ingredients, updated only slightly with modern technology and equipment, and improved ingredients.

Tell us about your award-winning hoop cheddar.
We’ve been making Old-Fashioned Hoop Cheddar since 1961. It won Best of Class at the 2022 World Championship Cheese Contest and is a traditional cheese we’ve taken great pride in perfecting. The red wax provides an attractive, protective coating that allows the cheese to breathe and age safely. Known for its rich, tangy, nutty and slightly salty flavor, ours is less sharp than most but carries a pronounced cheddar taste. Pair it with a crusty baguette, salami, fruit, fig jam or spicy pepper jelly, roasted nuts, and briny cornichons and green olives. Fall cocktails like a whiskey sour or an old-fashioned offer balance, while spicy syrah or peppery zinfandel adds a lively contrast.

What inspired you to create New World Cheddar?
We set out to create something new and exciting. New World Cheddar is a rich, robust cheese with a slightly sweet, subtle flavor. By blending sweet cream back into the cheese, we create its signature buttery flavor and deliver an ultra-creamy cheddar perfect for snacking, slicing or melting.

Artfully Crafted, Made for Your Table

These dedicated cheese artisans transform milk into masterworks you can savor. Experience their craftsmanship firsthand in the delicious recipe collection that follows.