The sweet, nutty punch of aged parmesan, the silky whisper of light, creamy mascarpone, the hint of blue notes and earthy vibes of blue-veined cheddar—to a chef, cheeses are more than ingredients. They’re part of a flavor-filled palette that transforms everyday dishes into sensory still lifes. At this year’s “Wisconsin Cheese Bubbles and Brunch” event, meet one of the state’s most celebrated chefs: Executive Chef Tory Miller of Madison, who joins Wisconsin Master Cheesemakers to prepare a brunch starring some of the world’s best cheeses. Learn how he curates one-of-akind dining experiences using artisanal cheeses—and how you can
do the same in your kitchen.
The Big Cheese
Executive Chef Tory Miller
Your host of the Wisconsin-original brunch event at this year’s Art of Cheese Festival, James Beard Award winner and Co-Owner of L'Etoile and Graze restaurants, Executive Chef Tory Miller, shares how to transform dishes into gallery-worthy presentations using artisanal cheeses.
A World-Class Collection
Wisconsin offers an exquisite display of cheese artistry. It’s a bounty of tradition and craftsmanship, an endless source of inspiration that empowers home cooks and chefs like Tory to imagine everything from velvety sauces to brunch fare that makes hearts skip a beat.
“Growing up in Wisconsin, I’ve definitely been influenced by the dairy and cheese culture,” Tory shares. “The sense of pride and community that goes into the love of dairy producers and cheesemakers is super inspiring. When you get to taste something that someone has put so much work into, it’s hard not to be inspired to take what they did and create something equally impactful.That challenge constantly drives me as a chef.”
Show Local Some Love
Tory won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest
in 2012. He’s committed to strengthening Madison's local
food system by sourcing Wisconsin-made ingredients for his
restaurants. The artisanal cheeses crafted just beyond his
backyard are brushstrokes of beauty and taste, adding depth
and expression to his acclaimed culinary offerings.
“When you can see the impact your food dollar has on your
community firsthand, it truly doesn’t make any sense to buy
food from far away if you can help it,” Tory says. “As a chef, it’s
often the most delicious food available.”
Though Tory says, “Picking a favorite Wisconsin cheese is like
picking a favorite child—you just can’t do it,” he keeps a few
knockouts on hand. “Some of my favorite cheesemakers are
Hook’s® Cheese Company, Marieke® Gouda, Roelli Cheese
Haus and Uplands Cheese Company,” he shares. “If you
need a cheese board with nothing but bangers, grab a cheese
from each of these makers and you’ll have a happy crowd at
your party.”
What’s his go-to cheese at his restaurants? “Sartori
SarVecchio® Parmesan. Since I came home from cooking in
New York City in 2003, it’s always been in our kitchen and on
our menus,” Tory says.
Get Creative with Cheese
In the kitchen, let cheese be your creative muse—taste,
explore, experiment with it, and let your taste buds guide you
toward new ways of bringing your cooking to life.
“I truly let the cheese tell me what to do,” Tory admits. “If
a vintage wedge of Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve is
particularly tropical tasting (IYKYK), then I might use it in a
riff on al pastor.”
Like any true artist, Tory puts his unique take on Wisconsin
cheeses, blending them with his Korean heritage to craft
original flavor combinations.
“As a chef, I like weaving my Korean-born but Wisconsin aised
background into my cooking,” he notes. “Serving
kimchi with cheese is extremely delicious. Sometimes, the
funkier the better. I also love to turn cheese sauces into
foams or spumas (culinary foams) in a professional cream
charger. The strong flavors of some Wisconsin cheeses lend
themselves to being a light, airy bite without adding anything
to them.”
Make It: Croque Madame with Bourbon-Blueberry Syrup recipe
Chef Secrets
Tory has no shortage of clever ideas and techniques when cooking with cheese. From elevating everyday brunch staples to crafting simple but sophisticated cheese pairings, artisanal cheeses are his secret weapon for dreaming up memorable masterworks.
"I love a croque madame for brunch," Tory says. "Ours is made with Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve and Hook’s Five-Year Swiss. We bake it in the oven until golden, melt the cheese, and serve it with a bourbon-blueberry maple syrup."
Of course, like a minimalist painting, simplicity is also striking. "I like to pair a super-aged cheddar—one over 10 years—with a big cabernet," he shares. "But lately, I’ve been loving cheeses with a lot of umami, like aged gouda, paired with ice-cold Txakolina, a sparkling dry white wine from Spain’s Basque Country."
Tory’s most surprising spin? “Murphy Farms’ Cottage Cheese,” he reveals. “It’s so delicious. We purée it with some buttermilk and serve it with spring asparagus. It’s crazy addicting.”
Savor Wisconsin-Original Events
Several signature events, like “Wisconsin Cheese Bubbles and Brunch” at the Art of Cheese Festival, feature one-of-a-kind, cheeseforward experiences. Discover Wisconsin’s pizza farm tradition at “Pizza Night at Seven Acre Dairy,” dance the night away at “The Wisconsin Cheese Ball,” join a live “Milk Street Radio” podcast with Christopher Kimball, or delight in the “Artisan Cheese Culinary Collab with Sean Pharr and Dan Jacobs,” where chefs from Madison’s Mint Mark and Milwaukee’s EsterEv—and Bravo’s Top Chef—team up for a dining event celebrating the craftsmanship of Wisconsin cheese. Check out the event schedule for details and more.
