The Gherkin in London, the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona and Taliesin
in Spring Green—each iconic landmark was shaped by architects who
turned to nature for inspiration in their visionary designs. The owner
of Uplands Cheese Company, Master Cheesemaker Andy Hatch,
does the same. For him, terroir—the French term for “taste of place”—
is the silent collaborator behind every wheel he crafts, including the
most awarded cheese in American history. This year, Andy welcomes
guests to Uplands Cheese for “Pleasant Ridge to Taliesin: A Taste
of Wisconsin’s Masterpieces,” a one-of-a-kind excursion that honors
the region’s artistry and heritage in world-class cheesemaking and
the architectural brilliance of Frank Lloyd Wright.
The Big Cheese
Master Cheesemaker Andy Hatch
At this year's Art of Cheese Festival,
Master Cheesemaker Andy Hatch shares how Uplands Cheese Company
captures the “taste of place” in Pleasant Ridge Reserve, followed by a private tour of Taliesin.
Breathtaking and Bountiful
Rolling pastures, cold-water streams, limestone bedrock and sweeping vistas define Wisconsin’s Driftless region. This landscape
inspired Frank Lloyd Wright to design Taliesin—his home, studio and garden sanctuary. But this land’s inspiration goes beyond
organic architecture.
Master Cheesemakers like Andy understand that this serene place imparts something profound to the milk produced here. His
cows graze on pastures rich with wildflowers, herbs and grasses, yielding milk layered with a subtle, complex sweetness. The milk
is handcrafted into Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve, a cheese rooted in its surroundings.
A Lesson on Terroir
Terroir—a French word meaning “taste of place”—refers to
the soil, climate and geography, shaping the flavors of local
food. Just as the wines of Bordeaux or Champagne carry
the fingerprint of their regions, so do the distinctive flavors
of cheese.
It’s likely the reason Pleasant Ridge Reserve has become a
legend. The cheese is made only in summer from grass-fed
raw milk gathered from May to October. This prestigious
alpine-style cheese has earned several first-place awards, was
named Best of Show at the American Cheese Society Cheese
Competition a record three times and won the title of U.S.
Champion at the 2003 U.S. Championship Cheese Contest.
“There are so many new, exciting cheeses out there, so the
fact that Pleasant Ridge Reserve keeps rising to the top is
validating,” Andy says. “But what I think is more remarkable
is that it’s a cheese with a ‘taste of place,’ and that’s unique.
Cheeses like this are compelling because they have depth and
complexity of flavor, so they grab judges’ attention because
they’re so expressive.”
“It’s like hearing Louis Armstrong sing—his voice is distinctive,”
he says. “That’s what Pleasant Ridge Reserve is. We aim to
make a cheese that's true to us. We do something that no one
can copy; we're in a category of one.”
Distinctly Different
Ask any cheesemaker, and they’ll tell you the secret to creating
a one-of-a-kind cheese is quality milk. For Andy, grass-fed raw
milk makes all the difference. His herd captures the tapestry of
flavor nuances of his farm’s land. The milk comes to the vat still
warm and the color of sunshine.
“We use milk from a single herd of pasture-fed cows,” Andy
explains. “Because we don’t pasteurize raw milk, we retain its
native bacteria. So when it comes to ripening that cheese, you
have more tools in the toolbox. That microbial diversity allows
for deeper complexity and more expressive flavor.”
The milk mirrors the cows’ diet, which reflects the land. “What
our cows eat here can’t be replicated anywhere else,” Andy
says. “That’s how you make something ‘taste of place.’ And
when you can control the milk’s quality, you have the chance to
make more interesting cheese.”
A Taste Like No Other
Rich and salty, Pleasant Ridge Reserve boasts a long, fruity
finish with sweet and complex notes expressed from the milk.
It’s an aged gem with a natural, washed rind that adds layers
of umami and savory flavors. It’s similar to the coveted alpage
versions of gruyère and Beaufort, but uniquely Wisconsin.
Pair it with lemon zest, pear mostarda, Genoa salami and
brioche for an easy but elevated bite. Or try Pleasant Ridge
Reserve alongside a sweet-tart Gold Rush cocktail, a hearty
breakfast stout or reishi mushroom tea to complement its
earthy notes.
“At home, I melt it with other savory flavors like eggs, onions
and garlic,” Andy shares. “That’s the beauty of Pleasant
Ridge Reserve—rich and savory, with those kinds of chicken
broth flavors. The wonderful thing about savory flavors is
that they build so well upon each other.”
Embark on a New Excursion
Exciting excursions like “Pleasant Ridge to Taliesin: A Taste of Wisconsin’s Masterpieces” offer a unique opportunity to explore the culinary riches found only in The State of Cheese. Savor the bold and smooth flavors of bourbon and cheese at “Spirited Pairing: A Wisconsin Cheese and Bourbon Experience,” a sensory class led by experts from the Center for Dairy Research, followed by
a guided tour of J. Henry & Sons. Or visit Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese at “From Farm to Cheese: A Creamery Tour and Tasting,” where you’ll taste your way through their collection of farmstead cheeses before enjoying a Wisconsin Cheese-inspired meal at a nearby retired and reclaimed Wisconsin dairy barn. Check out the event schedule for details and more.
