The art of affinage, sometimes also known as cheese ripening, is the final phase in the cheesemaking process. It’s the step that’s responsible for all the incredible flavor of the cheeses we love. During ripening, it may seem like a cheese just sits on a shelf to age, but there’s a lot going on underneath the surface. The cheese ripening process enables four simple ingredients – milk, salt, enzymes, and cultures – to produce hundreds of different cheeses with amazingly diverse tastes and textures.
In Wisconsin, we’ve elevated the art of cheese ripening to a whole new level. Our Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® Program is the only one outside of Europe – and one of the biggest reasons that Wisconsin is known as The State of Cheese™. With their advanced cheese ripening techniques, our more than 90 master cheesemakers have created some of the most awarded cheese in the world. For example, Sartori SarVecchio® Parmesan, aged for at least 20 months, has won countless accolades, as has Roth Grand Cru Surchoix® – a robust alpine-style cheese aged for at least nine months. Edelweiss Creamery Swiss Emmentaler is made with Old World techniques like a traditional copper kettle filled with fresh Wisconsin grass-based milk. The long cheese ripening process for Hook’s 15-Year Aged Cheddar results in a crumbly texture and intensely sharp flavor with hints of caramel. And Upland’s Pleasant Ridge Reserve, an alpine-style cheese that’s aged for several months, is the most awarded cheeses in U.S. history.
Cheese ripening is truly an art, and it’s usually performed by an affineur. At each stage of its life, a cheese needs to be treated and exposed to conditions that allow the fats, proteins, moisture, yeasts, molds, bacteria, enzymes, and salt within the cheese to interact and develop. It’s the job of the affineur to decide when these changes need to happen.
Cheese ripening is influenced by many factors that shape the cheese’s taste, texture, and appearance.
During the affinage process, cheesemakers use a variety of hands-on techniques to help their cheeses develop. Some of the key techniques include:
Different cheeses are ripened in different ways, which leads to a variety of textures and flavors.
Here are some general pairing guidelines for ripened cheeses.
Soft, bloomy rind cheeses like brie and camembert go well with sparkling wines like champagne or prosecco. Their creaminess pairs beautifully with the bubbles, and the acidity of the wine cuts through the richness of the cheese. They also pair well with light, fruity beers or dry ciders. For spirits, a cognac or brandy will balance the rich, creamy texture of the cheese, while lighter spirits like gin and light rum offer a refreshing contrast that enhances the cheese's mild and earthy flavors.
Washed-rind varieties like taleggio and limburger have a strong, earthy flavor, which pairs well with rich, fruity red wines like pinot noir or zinfandel. Belgian-style beers, with their malty sweetness, also complement the funkiness of washed-rind cheeses. Spirits like whisky, brandy, and armagnac can stand up to the intensity of these strong cheeses, while the sweetness of port or calvados also balances the bold, pungent notes of the cheese.
The bold, tangy flavors of blue cheeses pair beautifully with sweet wines such as sauternes, port, or a late-harvest riesling, as the sweetness balances the cheese’s sharp, salty flavors. For beer, strong and malty options like barleywine or Belgian-style ales and fruit beers complement the creaminess and boldness of the blue cheese. Whiskey or cognac, with their rich, caramelized notes, offer a smooth contrast to the pungency of blue cheeses, and madeira, tequila reposado, or tequila añejo are excellent choices as well.
Hard and aged cheeses like parmigiano reggiano or gouda pair wonderfully with full-bodied red wines such as cabernet sauvignon or chianti, as their bold tannins complement the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese. For beer, a robust ale, like a brown ale or a porter, enhances the cheese's savory and caramelized notes. If you’re in the mood for spirits, a smooth, aged whiskey or a rich, nutty sherry offer a perfect balance to the cheese's intense flavor, creating a harmonious pairing.
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The ripening process can vary greatly depending on the type of cheese. Soft cheeses like brie may ripen in just a few weeks, while hard cheeses like parmigiano reggiano can take months or even years to reach full maturity.
While it’s possible to slightly speed up ripening by increasing the temperature, doing so can result in uneven or undesired flavors and textures. It’s best to let cheese ripen slowly and naturally for the best results.
Craving award-winning aged cheddar, pining for parmesan, or searching for a new cheese to try? The world’s best cheese is just a click away! Explore our directory of Wisconsin cheesemakers and retailers who offer online cheese shopping and get cheese shipped right to your door. What are you waiting for?
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