Cheese Ripening

Cheese ripening: The key to flavor and texture

The art of affinage, sometimes also known as cheese ripening, is the final phase in the cheesemaking process. It’s the step that’s responsible for all the incredible flavor of the cheeses we love. During ripening, it may seem like a cheese just sits on a shelf to age, but there’s a lot going on underneath the surface. The cheese ripening process enables four simple ingredients – milk, salt, enzymes, and cultures – to produce hundreds of different cheeses with amazingly diverse tastes and textures.

Cheese ripening in Wisconsin

In Wisconsin, we’ve elevated the art of cheese ripening to a whole new level. Our Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® Program is the only one outside of Europe – and one of the biggest reasons that Wisconsin is known as The State of Cheese™. With their advanced cheese ripening techniques, our more than 90 master cheesemakers have created some of the most awarded cheese in the world. For example, Sartori SarVecchio® Parmesan, aged for at least 20 months, has won countless accolades, as has Roth Grand Cru Surchoix® – a robust alpine-style cheese aged for at least nine months. Edelweiss Creamery Swiss Emmentaler is made with Old World techniques like a traditional copper kettle filled with fresh Wisconsin grass-based milk. The long cheese ripening process for Hook’s 15-Year Aged Cheddar results in a crumbly texture and intensely sharp flavor with hints of caramel. And Upland’s Pleasant Ridge Reserve, an alpine-style cheese that’s aged for several months, is the most awarded cheeses in U.S. history.

Cheese ripening essentials

Cheese ripening is truly an art, and it’s usually performed by an affineur. At each stage of its life, a cheese needs to be treated and exposed to conditions that allow the fats, proteins, moisture, yeasts, molds, bacteria, enzymes, and salt within the cheese to interact and develop. It’s the job of the affineur to decide when these changes need to happen.

Elements of cheese ripening

Cheese ripening is influenced by many factors that shape the cheese’s taste, texture, and appearance.

• Microbial activity: Bacteria, yeasts, and molds are key players in the ripening process. They break down the proteins, fats, and sugars in cheese, creating the complex flavors we love. Some cheeses, like blue cheeses, rely on mold (such as Penicillium roqueforti) for their sharp flavor and veined appearance, while other cheeses depend on bacteria to soften their texture.
• Temperature: The temperature in which a cheese ripens affects how fast or slow it ages. Most cheeses are aged at cool temperatures between 32°F to 68°F. If the temperature is too low, the aging process slows down, resulting in a less developed flavor. On the other hand, a temperature that’s too high can cause the cheese to spoil or develop off flavors.
• Humidity: Humidity levels are crucial for preventing cheese from drying out while allowing it to develop the right texture. Softer cheeses like brie need high humidity (80-95%) to maintain their creamy centers, while drier cheeses like parmigiano reggiano benefit from lower humidity to help them firm up.
• Airflow: Proper air circulation around the cheese helps with the formation of the cheese rind, which can be soft, bloomy, or hard depending on the type of cheese. It also helps control the moisture level inside and outside the cheese.
• Types of bacteria and molds: Different strains of bacteria or mold contribute to unique flavors and textures. For example, Brevibacterium linens are responsible for the pungent smell of washed-rind cheeses like limburger and taleggio.
• Finishes: Cheeses are sometimes finished with specific treatments to enhance flavor. Finishes may involve coating in herbs, wrapping in leaves, or aging in beer, wine, or spirits. These finishes often infuse additional flavors into the cheese during ripening.

Affinage techniques

During the affinage process, cheesemakers use a variety of hands-on techniques to help their cheeses develop. Some of the key techniques include:

• Salting: Salt is essential for preserving cheese and developing flavor. It can be added directly into the curds or rubbed on the surface of the cheese. Salting also helps control moisture levels and the growth of certain microbes.
• Washing: Washed-rind cheeses are frequently bathed in brine (saltwater) that also contains a mix of the signature microbes that give the cheese a strong aroma and flavor. Regular washing creates a distinct rind and contributes to the cheese’s rich texture.
• Brushing and rubbing: Some cheeses are brushed or rubbed with oil, herbs, or spices during aging to enhance their flavor and help create a specific type of rind. This process also protects the cheese from drying out or developing unwanted mold.
• Flipping and turning: Cheeses are often flipped or rotated regularly to ensure even ripening. This prevents one side from becoming too moist or too dry, allowing the cheese to age consistently.
• Piercing: Blue cheeses like gorgonzola or roquefort are pierced with needles during affinage to introduce air into the cheese. This allows mold to grow inside, forming the signature blue veins that give the cheese its sharp, tangy flavor.

Types of cheese ripening

Different cheeses are ripened in different ways, which leads to a variety of textures and flavors.

• Surface-ripened cheeses: These cheeses ripen from the outside in, often developing a soft, bloomy rind. Examples include brie and camembert, which are covered in a thin layer of white mold. These cheeses start firm but soften over time, creating a creamy, gooey interior.
• Washed-rind cheeses: Washed-rind cheeses like taleggio or brick develop their distinct flavor and aroma from being washed with a brine solution during ripening. The washing encourages the growth of Brevibacterium linens, resulting in a strong, sometimes pungent smell.
• Blue-veined cheeses: Blue cheeses such as roquefort, stilton, and gorgonzola are pierced to allow oxygen into the paste so molds (usually strains of Penicillium) can grow during the aging process. These molds create the characteristic blue or green veins and contribute to the cheese’s sharp, tangy flavor and creamy or crumbly texture.
• Semi-soft and semi-hard cheeses: Cheeses like havarti, edam, gouda, and medium cheddar fall into this category. They’re typically ripened for several months, developing complex flavors while retaining some moisture and a smooth, elastic texture.
• Hard and aged cheeses: Hard cheeses like parmigiano reggiano, aged gouda, and sharp cheddar are ripened for longer periods, sometimes over a year. These cheeses become firmer, and their flavors become more concentrated and intense. As they age, they may develop crunchy crystals formed from amino acids.

What to sip and savor with ripened cheeses

Here are some general pairing guidelines for ripened cheeses.

Soft and bloomy cheeses

Soft, bloomy rind cheeses like brie and camembert go well with sparkling wines like champagne or prosecco. Their creaminess pairs beautifully with the bubbles, and the acidity of the wine cuts through the richness of the cheese. They also pair well with light, fruity beers or dry ciders. For spirits, a cognac or brandy will balance the rich, creamy texture of the cheese, while lighter spirits like gin and light rum offer a refreshing contrast that enhances the cheese's mild and earthy flavors.

Washed-rind cheeses

Washed-rind varieties like taleggio and limburger have a strong, earthy flavor, which pairs well with rich, fruity red wines like pinot noir or zinfandel. Belgian-style beers, with their malty sweetness, also complement the funkiness of washed-rind cheeses. Spirits like whisky, brandy, and armagnac can stand up to the intensity of these strong cheeses, while the sweetness of port or calvados also balances the bold, pungent notes of the cheese.

Blue cheeses

The bold, tangy flavors of blue cheeses pair beautifully with sweet wines such as sauternes, port, or a late-harvest riesling, as the sweetness balances the cheese’s sharp, salty flavors. For beer, strong and malty options like barleywine or Belgian-style ales and fruit beers complement the creaminess and boldness of the blue cheese. Whiskey or cognac, with their rich, caramelized notes, offer a smooth contrast to the pungency of blue cheeses, and madeira, tequila reposado, or tequila añejo are excellent choices as well.

Hard and aged cheeses

Hard and aged cheeses like parmigiano reggiano or gouda pair wonderfully with full-bodied red wines such as cabernet sauvignon or chianti, as their bold tannins complement the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese. For beer, a robust ale, like a brown ale or a porter, enhances the cheese's savory and caramelized notes. If you’re in the mood for spirits, a smooth, aged whiskey or a rich, nutty sherry offer a perfect balance to the cheese's intense flavor, creating a harmonious pairing.